Qu’est-ce que c’est at Tous les Jours?
Manhattan’s Koreatown has been remaking itself at breakneck pace over the last two years, as Korean food finally approaches mainstream in New York. There are food courts, barbecues, tofu parlors, upscale formal restaurants with views of the city skyline, and, most recently, a slew of French bakeries aimed at Koreans. One of the newest is Tous les Jours (“All the Days”), and if you’re in the vicinity, you ought to step in and examine the offerings, because some are really off the wall.
Here’s the tag for the pastry shown above.
One such strange pastry is called foliage sausage bread, but it looks more like a pizza, or maybe a cheese Danish. The thing is made of an agreeable puff pastry in a leaf shape, and a cut-up hot dog is embedded in every lobe of the leaf. On top is a lake of bechamel, there are freeze-dried chives sprinkled on top, and plenty of crunchy onions in the dough and in the bechamel. Ketchup is squiggled over the top, maybe to remind you that there are franks hidden here and there.
Eating the pastry seems almost like eating a slice. And it’s really not bad. You couldn’t eat more than one (I’m still working on mine), which, I guess, makes the foliage sausage bread a good deal. Anyway, the bakery is scrupulous about indicating when the product was made, what temperature it’s being held at, and what time it will expire, a strangely scientific approach for a bakery.
Of course there are cupcakes, sweet rolls, sandwiches, profiteroles, and other French-leaning stuff tweaked for Korean coffeehouse sensibilitiies, and a rather large and grand seating area in the rear. Give it a try.
Another pastry flashes its weenie a little less discreetly.
A French bakery on 32nd Street? No, Korean!
Tous les Jours
31 West 32nd Street
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 9, 2013