Pop-ups are running rampant in New York City as talented chefs and would-be chefs decide against investing in a full-scale restaurant and instead showcase their dishes for one night only–or one night per week–in odd places around town. One of the newest of those endeavors is Lucy Roux, which Fork in the Road writer Billy Lyons visits this week.
If you pass by Williamsburg’s craft beer mecca D.B.A. Brooklyn on a warm Friday night and peek in to see a tattooed crowd listening to hard rock and drinking harder alcohol, you’re not looking close enough.
Stepping up through the door into the dimly lit space, try not to get distracted by the seemingly endless beer selection, each of the 127 options spelled out on a chalkboard with names like Weihenstephaner and Gaverhopke Koerseklakske. Someone clearly spent time honing their penmanship in afterschool detention. Keeping your eyes front and center, ignore the temptation to sit down and play Rock ‘Em Sock ‘Em Robots, and head toward the light of the backyard patio, where your reward will be a delicious combination of cultures that goes by the name of Lucy Roux. Though the pop-up has only existed for a few weeks, the camaraderie its founders share with one another has been building for more than five years.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on June 12, 2013