Harefield Road is a dimly lit bar with a selection of two dozen draught brews deep enough to cater to the beer snob set, which is exactly what this spot does most nights of the week. But during weekend brunching hours (11 a.m. to 4 p.m.), the Irish-born, English-bred owner carries out the Sunday roast tradition observed by many pubs in the U.K. and rolls out a midday meal.
During those hours, the sun shines brightly through the Swamp Thing-esque stained glass windows in the Harefield’s entryway, and the joint’s rear skylight illuminates the dark wood used throughout seemingly every inch of the long, narrow Williamsburg storefront. Noon on a summer Sunday finds every table and every seat at Harefield’s 20-foot-long bar occupied with brunchers happy to be indoors, where ceiling fans keep the place cool. The wait for a table stretches about 30 minutes, though an outside spot is easier to come by, as fewer seem inclined to eat in the heat. The hip crowd of brunchers happily shows off legs, tattoos, dreadlocks, and babies, and barely audible music from the house speakers ensures you won’t have to strain to hear conversation, even after a few drinks.
The hordes are here for an all-inclusive boozy brunch deal, which nets you a mimosa or bloody mary and an entree for $12, tax included (cash only, by the way).
Harefield’s food menu offers brunch usuals like burgers and sandwiches, omelettes, french toast, and a couple versions of eggs benedict, plus Cali-Mex favorites like huevos rancheros and a breakfast burrito. It’s an impressive selection since the kitchen is in operation at no other time during the week.
Entrees come with a simple side salad or fresh fruit plus home fries, which are seasoned with rosemary and thyme. That makes a great complement to a grilled portobello sandwich, but is jarring when paired with a breakfast burrito stuffed with chorizo, black beans, eggs, and cheese. Omelettes are nice and fluffy and can be filled with mushrooms, tomatoes, bacon, onions, or cheese (pick three); the eight-ounce sirloin burger is popular, visible on several tables around the room.
Huevos rancheros–two eggs any style with black beans, an avocado, pico de gallo, salsa verde, and cheese–comes highly recommended from several regulars. Also recommended is the bloody mary: The house-made mix is spicy and strong, and it makes the mimosa look downright dainty.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 5, 2013