Melt Bakery’s Morticia, One of Our 100 Favorite Dishes


Later this year, we’ll pen our Best of New York issue, our annual love letter to what’s great in this town. When that paper hits the streets, you’ll find our picks for the very best this city has to offer when it comes to dozens of cuisines, restaurants, dishes and drinks. Until then, you can get a taste of our contenders as we count down, in no particular order, our 100 favorite dishes from around the boroughs, a list of laudable eats worth tracking down right now.

No. 73: The Morticia ice cream sandwich from Melt Bakery

The first time we stopped by the Lower East Side outpost of Melt Bakery, we asked the guy behind the counter to name his favorite ice cream sandwich on offer that day. “I don’t pick favorites,” he said slowly. “But if I could only send one of my kids to college, well …” And then he nodded toward the Morticia. After countless return trips, we agree: The other ice cream sammies at Melt are totally solid, but only the Morticia invokes in us rabid fits of craving (usually at inconvenient times, like the middle of the night). Two dense, sugar-speckled dark chocolate cookies frame a thick layer of malted rum ice cream that tastes not so much of alcohol as chocolate malt, which sends us on a trip right down memory lane to drinking icy malted shakes fast enough to get a headache. That taste plays well with the bittersweet richness of the cookie, the creamy texture ideally matched by the crackly texture of that sugar. If we could fill our freezers with hundreds of these, we would do it. Especially since the Melt menu changes daily, so there’s no guarantee we’ll find this when we pop by.

No. 100: Taqueria Lower East Side’s carnitas
No. 99: Tartine’s steamed mussels
No. 98: Malu’s Cookie Monster ice cream
No. 97: Coppelia’s Havana salad
No. 96: Falansai’s clay pot catfish
No. 95: Uncle Boons’ Khao Soi Kaa Kai
No. 94: ABC Cocina’s salted caramel “impossible” flan
No. 93: Shu Jiao Fu Zhou Cuisine’s peanut noodles
No. 92: Distilled’s country-fried duck and waffles
No. 91: Calliope’s octopus salad
No. 90: Charlie Bird’s diver scallop crudo
No. 89: Silver Moon Bakery’s fig and pepper bread
No. 88: Stage Restaurant’s egg, cheese, and sausage on a roll
No. 87: Manzanilla’s Marbella’s Full Moon
No. 86: Bia’s Cary Ga
No. 85: La Newyorkina’s pineapple jalapeño paleta
No. 84: Empellón Taqueria’s skirt steak tacos
No. 83: Sugar Sweet Sunshine’s pistachio cupcake
No. 82: El Chivito d’Oro’s skirt steak
No. 81: Saro Bistro’s satarash
No. 80: Oda House’s adjaruli khatchapuri
No. 79: Hill Country Chicken’s pie milkshake
No. 78: Fletcher’s Brooklyn Barbecue’s chili mac
No. 77: The Musket Room’s steak and cheese pie
No. 76: Battery Harris’ Baked Patties
No. 75: Legend’s Dan Dan Noodles
No. 74: Pure Thai’s Nakorn-Patom duck noodles soup