Hannah Palmer Egan contemplates the complexity of baby mustard leaves as she stands in one of the rooftop farms sown by Brooklyn Grange. “The leaf has a green, vegetal flavor, with a strong wasabi note, a warm sensation on the tongue,” she writes. “Moments later, my mouth explodes in a fiery burst of black-pepper spice.”
The farm is a pioneer in commercial urban agriculture, and after becoming beloved by chefs the city over, it expanded into two (soon to be three) plots. Egan follows the mustard leaf from bed to plate in a Brooklyn restaurant, trailing managing partner Anastasia Cole Plakias through her beds before sitting down to dinner a few miles away.
Read Hannah Palmer Egan’s full acccount of Brooklyn Grange, one of the most innovative players in the locavore movement, in today’s Village Voice, and check this space tomorrow for a photo tour of the rooftop plot.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 31, 2013