In this space, James A. Foley explores New York City’s strangest sandwiches.
After one big first bite into the Thanksgiving sandwich at Terri, which launched in Flatiron and just opened a new location in the Financial District at 100 Maiden Lane, a number of thoughts struck all at once: First, it was the middle of summer, and Thanksgiving ain’t even close. Second, as sweet sensations of cranberry sauce and tangy vegan mayo came together with walnuts and celery only to be interrupted by the bizarre rendering of processed soy known as Tofurky, it occurred to me that while sliced Tofurky appears, smells, and tastes (sort of) like slices of lowbrow corporate deli turkey, it’s probably best to interpret the soy product more like a substitute for meat rather than a replacement.
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And also, this sandwich version of a traditionally meaty meal was vegan. So is the menu at Terri, which makes it seem a little unlikely on Wall Street, which is flush with bankers who frequent Manhattan’s steakhouses.
And indeed, on a weekday after work, patrons at that location were mostly dudes with beards and chicks with attitudinal hairdos munching on selections from a menu full of vegan versions of everyman sandwiches and desserts.
But back to the Thanksgiving sandwich. The crushed walnuts provided meaty-ish flavor and substance, the homemade cranberry sauce spread added playful sweetness, and crunchy celery rounded out the texture for an agreeable sandwich. A light griddling lent the visual appeal of grill crosshatching on the thick ciabatta as well as toasty crunch.
My only real beef (ha) with the sandwich was with the bread-to-filling ratio: Each bite was a mouthful of bread and a small taste of Thanksgiving. But even with the mismatched ingredient quantities, it’s worth seeking out this sammie even when we’re a long ways away from the fourth Thursday in November.