Fritzl’s Lunch Box is a cheery American luncheonette smack in the middle of Bushwick that opened early this year. Chef Dan Ross-Leutwyler is an alum of Roberta’s and Fatty ‘Cue, and he has a knack for making de rigeur American food–roasted beets, grilled cheese sandwiches, and caesar salad, for instance–more interesting. The menu changes quite often, though the burger–a Fork favorite made with chopped pickles and special sauce on a soft sesame seed bun–is a permanent fixture, and there is often a Mexican slant to a couple of the choices.
Consider, for example, chicken wings marinated in salsa, Baja shrimp cocktails, and an especially memorable tamale, stuffed with purple crumbles of spicy blood sausage.
And then there’s the carne enchilada burrito ($8), a recent lunchtime special. A large flour tortillas wraps around a wet, spicy layer of pork that’s been rubbed with an enchilada paste then braised and shredded. That pig is sweetish and smoky like good BBQ, and it melds well with soft, creamy pinto beans. Guacamole and sour cream finish the mass, and pickled jalapeño scattered throughout add a pop of tart heat.
Though the tube is carefully wrapped in aluminum foil, make sure you strategically position the red plastic paper-lined basket underneath your meal as you eat; trickles of savory juice will leak out the bottom.