At its worst, conch can be tough and chewy, with a pungent seawater taste. Not so at La Caye, a small Haitian restaurant in Fort Greene where three friends cook up authentic and subtly spiced island cuisine. There, the lambi, as the sea snail is known in Haiti, is served grilled, accompanied by a cool, slightly spicy mango sauce. Like thick strips of confetti with a satisfying char, the lambi is tender with just the right amount of bite. You may not feel like you’re at the beach, but you can at least eat like it. Bon mangé!