On a stretch of Eldridge Street peppered with hole-in-the-wall Fujianese restaurants, this barebones corner canteen serves one of the cheapest, most addictive renditions of peanut noodles in the entire neighborhood. At Shu Jiao Fu Zhou Cuisine, $2 gets you a heaping tangle of bouncy flat wheat noodles or chewy rice noodles sporting velvet-rich peanut sauce lent depth from a noticeable dose of soy sauce. Fujianese soups are also on offer, the best of which features traditional spongy fish balls stuffed with ground pork bobbing in slightly vinegared broth. The menu may not be as extensive as other options—like the excellent Sheng Wang—but Shu Jiao remains a beacon for lovers of this style of Chinese cooking.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 16, 2013