Noodles, Potatoes, and Matcha Ice Cream: Dishes We’re Digging Around Town


Another week, another stretch of gluttony. As we’ve eaten our way through numerous NYC establishments in the last seven days, we’ve loved cold noodles, sausage and grits, and a Japanese ice cream parfait. Here’s what we’ve been digging around town.

Buckwheat cold noodles at Xi’an Famous Foods, multiple locations
Somehow, we’ve been scarfing down liang pi cold-skin noodles this whole time while these squiggly bastards were hidden one box away on Xi’an’s Hollywood Squares board of a menu. The tangle of springy buckwheat noodles ($5) are nutty enough to stand up to the expansion-prone chain’s battalion of spices, including liberal splashes of black rice vinegar, mustard oil, and chili oil. Topped with cilantro stalks and cucumber slivers, we like to give the noodles a loose stir to ensure that the green garnishes lend their bright flavor to each bite. –Zachary Feldman

Veggie ramen at Chuko, 552 Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-576-6701
We’re on board with eating more plant matter, but we wrote off veggie ramen long ago — how could it be possible to create the intense flavor characteristic of this Japanese noodle dish without animal protein? But then we had Chuko’s veggie ramen and saw the error of our ways. The Prospect Heights noodle house makes a vegetarian broth of heady depth lent by miso, garlic, and ginger. It supports a nest of noodles and a market vegetable (winter squash, on a recent night). Add an egg if you’re not a vegan. You’re not even going to think about missing the pork. –Laura Shunk

Nuestras patatas at Tertulia, 359 Sixth Avenue, 646-559-9909
We stopped into Tertulia for a late afternoon snack a couple of weeks back, hoping for a little pan con tomate or a quivering slice of tortilla. No such luck — the kitchen closes for a couple of hours before dinner, and the only things on offer were cured meats and these potatoes. So we ordered the patatas, fried amber and crisp and drizzled generously with tart, tangy aioli. They were so satisfying and indulgent, we forgot our other cravings entirely. –Laura Shunk

Sausage at Emily, 919 Fulton Street, Brooklyn, 347-844-9588
This is no Italian-style link, but no matter: take a Brooklyn Bangers sausage, oozing with hot fat, and lay it over creamy, coarse-ground cheesy grits, then top it all with pickled onion and jalapeño, et voila, you have yourself a winner. And the wood-oven style pizza is worth a taste, too .–Hannah Palmer Egan

Anmitsa matcha parfait at Sushi Azabu, 428 Greenwich Street, 212-274-0428
After a pristine omakase tasting at this TriBeCa sushi house, we were inclined to pass on dessert. Our server made a convincing argument for the parfait, though, and after tasting it, we’re glad we heard his case. Housemade green tea ice cream — sweet, verdant, and just slightly bitter — is topped with chewy bulbs of mochi, gooey red bean paste, fresh fruit, and crunchy slivered almonds. Palate-cleansing and light, it’s a strong conclusion to an excellent meal. –Laura Shunk