Last summer, Williamsburg climbed up the city’s totem pole of burritos when Stan’s Cafecito (172 Havemeyer Street, 646-626-9175) quietly opened its doors and became the neighborhood’s secret cache for tortilla-wrapped breakfasts. Tucked into a tiny alcove between South 2nd and South 3rd, the space initially held just a ramshackle plywood counter, a small fridge, and a griddle, and there was barely enough room to stand and place an order. The cafe recently expanded into the former copy shop next door to include a couple of tables and chairs and a shelf heavy with hot sauce. There are also three stools out on the street.
Owner Stan Tankursley cracks eggs, wraps burritos in aluminum foil, and gossips with regulars. He is used to tight spaces — he spent a couple of years running the Eat Here Now Now Eat Here food truck before he opened this spot. His menu is marked onto a piece of cardboard with a sharpie: jambalaya burritos ($8), mango coconut chicken burritos ($8), sometimes quesadillas ($4), sometimes grits with eggs ($8).
But the lines out the door form for the breakfast burritos ($6), which are long and slender, flour tortillas tightly wrapped so that they resemble sticks of dynamite. A filling of softly scrambled eggs, cheddar, softening onion, and curlicues of raw jalapeno is evenly dispersed throughout the core. The chorizo burrito ($8) is even better; dry crumbles of garlicky orange sausage lend richness to the mix. Add a Manhattan Special Espresso Soda, step onto the sidewalk, and you’re good to go.
Sunday through Wednesday, 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Thursday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 4 a.m.
Scarlett Lindeman is a Brooklyn-based writer, covering the city’s best taquerias, fondas, and cantinas. She writes the ¡Oye! Comida column for Fork in the Road.