Zachary Feldman stops into Narcissa (21 Cooper Square) for this week’s review, where he finds Dovetail’s John Fraser working his familiar vegetable magic in a setting that’s far from precious. “Narcissa appears almost defiantly modern,” he writes. “You’ll find no obscure agricultural tools or bales of hay at this farm-to-table restaurant. What you will find is plenty of tarted-up vegetables and a parade of fashionable people putting those vegetables into their mouths.” He goes on to taste carrots Wellington, beets and sweet potatoes cooked in a rotisserie basket, and a few meatier dishes, like lamb.
Photographer Bradley Hawks captured the restaurant in images; take a look at his work here and then read Feldman’s full review.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 9, 2014