If you are of the sort that derives amusement from the ever-changing permutations of modern, fast-food restaurant menus, then Taco Bell’s new breakfast roll-out probably caught your eye. Late last month, in an attempt to capture a portion of the early morning market, Taco Bell (785 Flushing Avenue, 718-218-9715) added a host of breakfast items to its line-up, including a taco fashioned out of a waffle and an A.M. version of its popular Crunchwrap.
The waffle taco ($1.99) features a small square of waffle, a circle of sausage, a rubbery egg product, and sprinkling of orange cheese. Syrup packets are served on the side. At first bite, the taco squished audibly like a squeezed dishwashing sponge. It’s a tasteless, bland, amalgam of breakfasts of past, which makes considering the philosophical query it poses — does folding something in half a taco make? — more worthwhile than actually eating it.
The A.M. Crunchwrap fared better. A hexagonal purse of eggs, bacon (there’s also plain, sausage, and steak, $2.49), a cake of hashbrowns, and a creamy, jalapeño sauce was encased in a dry, flour tortilla. It was edible — the hashbrowns crisp and slick with oil, the package appropriately portable, and it hit most of the breakfasty flavor notes, with more than half of the recommended daily intake of saturated fat.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 23, 2014