This week, Zachary Feldman reviews North River (166 First Avenue, 212-228-1200), an East Village restaurant that bears the old Dutch name for a section of the Hudson, and deals in “freewheeling food” from “Adam Starowicz, a Momofuku Ko, Hearth, and Mas (farmhouse) alumnus,” Feldman writes. “Poised and bespectacled, he looks like the local, sustainable love child of Dan Barber and Wylie Dufresne. His cooking, meanwhile, is understandably an amalgam of his experiences in kitchens that worship at the altar of ingredient provenance and gentle boundary pushing.”
Feldman finds many highlights, and photographer Bradley Hawks captured a number of the best dishes.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 30, 2014