While Italian immigrants were busy making this city great by giving us pizza, their Eastern European counterparts set to pickling cucumbers and tomatoes, smoking fish, and rolling bagels and bialys by hand. Long New York’s unofficial breadstuff, an outstanding bagel starts and ends with proper technique and a near-continual cook, ensuring a fresh product throughout the day. And like our beloved pizzerias, it’s this dedication to quality and respect for the practice that makes for a superior bagel shop. Whether your go-to order is plain with butter or a toasted everything with scallion cream cheese and private stock sturgeon, there’s no wrong way to eat the right bagel made by a shop with character. Here are the 10 Best in NYC. Words by Zachary Feldman and photos by Bradley Hawks.