That there’s a dearth of Ethiopian food in New York City means that Bushwick’s Bunna Cafe (1084 Flushing Avenue) would likely have stood out solely for its meals built on lentil stews and injera. But the restaurant is unique even among other restaurants serving the same cuisine because it’s meat-free: Bunna celebrates Ethiopia’s vegan fare.
“And though the mash-up sounds like a Brooklyn cliché, Ethiopian cuisine has long had vegetarian and vegan dishes in its repertoire thanks to extended fasting periods imposed by the Ethiopian Orthodox Church,” writes Zachary Feldman in this week’s review.
Feldman makes his way out to Bunna’s Flushing Avenue address and samples his way through chef Kedija Srage’s considerable menu. He also observes one of the traditional coffee ceremonies, which pour four nights a week.