Zachary Feldman heads to The Gander (15 West 18th Street, 646-682-7949) for this week’s review, tasting Jesse Schenker’s work at his follow-up to Recette. “Sitting on a bland stretch of West 18th Street, The Gander is a cheeky recalibration of sorts,” he writes. “Initially planned as ‘The Goose,’ Schenker and his wife and partner, Lindsay Schenker, had first sought equally roomy confines on West 20th Street, then home to the glitter-stained ruins of a nightclub…As such a departure from the flagship, with its high ceilings and dining rooms that extend a good one-third of a city block, the space ultimately sets the tone of what the family Schenker is trying to accomplish here.”
Feldman also notes that entrees head into $40 territory, a hefty price tag for a reimagined big box restaurant.
Were the meals worth it? Read Feldman’s full review to find out.