Dish no. 99: Chopped liver from Russ & Daughters Cafe (127 Orchard Street, 212-475-4881)
You’ll find many of the Russ & Daughters mainstays you came to know and love at the original appetizing counter on the menu here at the new cafe, and the whitefish, cured salmon, caviar, and herring are, as always, worthy of your attention. But don’t move past the chopped liver so quickly — this rendition’s good enough to convert the offal-wary (and to hook the offal-weary in for another bite). Light in texture and mildly flavored, it’s served with a stack of matzo and a side of fuchsia pickled onions, which give a nice, tart edge to each rich bite.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on June 10, 2014
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