Dish no. 98: Veal Cordon Bleu at Zum Stammtisch (69-46 Myrtle Avenue, Queens, 718-386-3014
The (large) plates of jaegerschnitzel, sauerbraten, and krainerwurst at this old Ridgewood beer hall are excellent renditions of dishes found in the Rhineland, but it’s the veal cordon bleu that really has us shouting “Prost!” Tender veal is wrapped around thin slices of boiled ham and Swiss, then pan fried until its outer layer is crisp and the cheese is gooey. The only accompaniment you get (or need) is a lemon wedge, which brightens the ingredients’ natural flavors. It’s best paired with a beer, of course.