Zachary Feldman heads to Harlem for this week’s review, popping into Cheri (231 Lenox Avenue, 212-662-4374), a well-styled French restaurant that’s been luring in a hip crowd.
“In the shadow of the Romanesque revival St. Martin’s Episcopal Church, Chéri is designed to feel like a fashionable Francophilic apartment,” writes Feldman. “The whitewashed main dining room is dominated by plush salon chairs that also accent a very den-like patch of space featuring a flat-screen TV playing French films on mute (on one of our visits it was Jacques Tati’s Mon Oncle), a non-working fireplace that glows with faux embers, and a color-coordinated bookshelf stocked with popular titles such as Harry Potter, Ted Bell suspense novels, and The Low-Carb Bible. When the 45-seat dining room fills up, at least you can rest your tired bones in style. The room is split by a long wooden communal dining table and a grand piano that occasionally gets its ivories tickled, especially during brunch, when live performers like Harlem jazz crooner Lady Leah hold court.”
But how was the food? Head on over to the review to find out.