There’s no better evidence of gentrification’s continued push into Crown Heights than the restaurants: Slick new eateries are replacing old mom-and-pops at a relentless pace. But is that always bad?
Zachary Feldman heads to neighborhood newcomer Glady’s (788 Franklin Avenue) for this week’s review, and sees a positive side of the change. “Glady’s may be rare proof that gentrification isn’t always a four-letter word,” he writes. “It was well-received when it opened last year as a New American restaurant. Later, inspired by living in Crown Heights, Jacober was compelled to change course completely with a Caribbean bent. At first, it sounds like the restaurant that white guilt built, but he confides that the prospect of being a white guy cooking Caribbean food in a Caribbean neighborhood was simply too distressing at first.”
How was that food? Take a look at these stunning food photos from Bradley Hawks, then read the full review.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on June 25, 2014