Dish no. 86: Strozzapreti Con Aragosta from Lincoln Ristorante (142 West 65th Street, 212-359-6500)
On bracing winter nights when the sky was only as bright as the falling snow, the hot and sweet peppers tossed in Jonathan Benno’s scallop and lobster sausage strozzapreti con aragosta brightened our palates and warmed our souls. But seasons change — afternoons now stretch to 9 p.m., and by the time primi is served, the horizon’s only as dark as Lincoln’s negroni. The pasta has changed, too, but it’s no less enchanting: This swirl of sweetly meaty hand-rolled coral noodles arrives dressed for summer with tarragon and peas basking in melted beef tendon and butter.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on June 27, 2014
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