Dish no. 81: Solomon Gundy from M. Wells Steakhouse (43-15 Crescent Street, Long Island City, 718-786-9060)
There’s still one mechanic tinkering inside Euro Sport Collision Repair, the shell of an auto body shop that houses husband and wife Hugue Dufour’s and Sarah Obraitis’ Quebecois M. Wells Steakhouse. The remaining grease monkey is behind the bar, scraping potato blini batter into the hot oiled wheel well of a waffle iron, rotating the smoking griddle until the crisped edges of two fattened wedges peek out the seams. This is the Solomon Gundy, a pile-up in the making. The potato waffle’s peppered quarters are scattered with chopped filets of pickled smelt, smacked with golden trout roe, bumpered with onions, and walloped with a smog of creme fraiche. When it’s set before you, you’ll do it significant damage.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 7, 2014
More:100 Favorite Dishes