Ines Bakery’s (948 Fourth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-788-0594) slim counter space does a brisk after school business selling savory snacks like tortas on house made rolls ($5), pupusas ($3), and ham and cheese sandwiches ($4). But the Sunset Park outlet is, first and foremost, a bakery specializing in sweets.
A glass counter filled with baked goods is the focal point of the shop, and the window arrangement features triple-stacked, thickly-frosted cakes, the kind you order in advance for celebratory occasions.
You’ll find all of the Mexican standards here: shellacked elephant ears looped into crisp curls, yeasted breads dunked in neon sugar, oblong conchas called armadillos, coconut cocoadas, and besitos that release a flurry of powdered sugar at first bite. Croissants are called “crozans” here and smell of cinnamon. The soft crescent dough of the empanadas ($1) tear open to expose pineapple jelly, guava paste with cheese, and rice pudding, creamy and flecked with spice. The tres leches sheet cakes, decorated with candied strawberries and squiggles of chocolate, sit in pools of their own sweet milk.
The petite yeast doughnuts fried in the morning ($.75) are classic. Slicked with glaze (the chocolate dipped is a bit waxy) or rolled in sugar, it’s hard not to inhale three.
Scarlett Lindeman is a Brooklyn-based writer, covering the city’s best taquerias, fondas, and cantinas.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 9, 2014