Dish no. 75: The Portobello Mousse at Dirt Candy (430 East 9th Street, 212-228-7732)
You love foie gras, but you love your strictly vegetarian significant other more. Six months in, lentils be damned, you can’t imagine life before him or her. Not when you catch a whiff of the burger outside The Lion, or see bare flesh on display in Citarella’s window. The veal goulash at Veselka? You swear it’s over between you. Dinner tonight at Dirt Candy was even your idea. And as you smear a crisp of truffle-scented baguette with a salted sliver of inimitably creamy portobello mousse, layering each bite with an earthy sweet pear and fennel compote, a question spills out of your mouth, draped in fervent admiration you can’t quite believe: “Did you know they make a vegan version, too?”
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 15, 2014
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