“Sardined into a small foyer next to the Paris Theatre, the entrance to Beautique (8 West 58th Street, 212-753-1200), midtown’s newest posh restaurant, could be mistaken for a modern art installation,” writes Zachary Feldman in this week’s review. “A bouncer guards an unmanned piano in an empty room — we never saw any ivories tickled. It looks like the lobby of the fanciest walk-up (or -down) apartment in town, but downstairs you’ll find a dimly lighted, subterranean complex that’s trying very hard to appeal to the tony neighborhood with décor inspired by Coco Chanel, which edges toward the comically baroque.”
Still, Feldman acknowledges, it fits the neighborhood. It’s in this setting that Le Cirque alum Craig Hopson is putting out “visually appealing, often expensive food,” says Feldman. Is it worth its pricetag? Take a look at these shots from Bradley Hawks, and then head over to the review to find out.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 16, 2014