Dish no. 74: Meatloaf Mac & Cheese at Queens Comfort (40-09 30th Avenue, 718-728-2350)
If you are going to call yourself Queens Comfort, you had better be serving up a topnotch rendition of macaroni and cheese, one of the world’s best comfort foods. Luckily, the restaurant delivers, upping the ante with another comforting ingredient: meatloaf. Elbow macaroni and bits of homemade meatloaf are doused with white cheddar, fontina, and gouda-infused bechamel (itself made from milk, heavy cream, flour, and a butter based roux). The blend is ladled into a casserole dish, topped with more cheese, and then browned under the salamander until it’s bubbling and crispy along the edges. This monster gets crowned with a fistful of deep-fried, Tabasco-kissed shoestring onions.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 16, 2014
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