Dish no. 61: Burger from Donovan’s Pub (5724 Roosevelt Avenue, Queens, 718-429-9339)
The Platonic ideal of an Irish pub, Donovan’s has been a Woodside fixture for nearly 50 years. Though the management recently changed, the new owners have no interest in messing with a good thing. And the best thing, as the sign hanging out front boasts, is the burger, a rich half-pounder with juices that ooze into the toasted bun and can be sopped up with a side of crisp steak fries. The patty comes with lettuce and tomato but needs little else–except a pint, perhaps. It’s best enjoyed in the main dining room, where a roaring fire makes for a transportive experience.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 4, 2014