When Zachary Feldman sits down to dinner at Claudette (24 Fifth Avenue), the subject of this week’s restaurant review, he finds himself wooed by a surprising version of a tripe stew. “The bundles of tripe-wrapped pork shoulder bob in a white-wine tomato broth dotted with roughly cut mirepoix,” he writes. “The carrots, potatoes, and celery, stained ruddy, have sopped up the juices pooled within the stew’s shallow copper pot. It hardly resembles the much-derided organ meat I’ve come to love for its sci-fi appearance and yielding chew. Stretched, rolled into bundles, then browned in the oven, this tripe was as hearty as I’d expected, but lively, too, and almost…graceful.” It’s a recipe from the woman who inspired the restaurant, it turns out, and it’s a window into the kitchen’s work.
How so? Take a look at these photos, and then head to the review to find out.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 6, 2014