Zachary Feldman visited El Vez (259 Vesey Street), Stephen Starr’s Battery Park City neo-cantina, for this week’s review, and he got off to an awkward start. “…at El Vez, mega-restaurateur Stephen Starr’s local outpost of his decade-old Mexican standby in Philadelphia, the waitstaff is as hot for answers as a team of film noir private dicks,” he writes. “The call for orders comes suddenly — in one table’s case, a server set upon patrons immediately after handing out menus. This, and other normally innocuous requests are repeated often enough throughout the course of a meal to be borderline intrusive. There’s no doubt that turnover is important, but guests shouldn’t be made to feel as if their asses are worth less than the seats they occupy.”
Brushing it off, Feldman ate his way through a menu of guacamole, quesadillas, and mole, and washed it down with a drinks list replete with agave spirits.
Was the food good enough to save the service gaffes? Head on over to the full review to find out.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 13, 2014