Last week, barbecue entrepreneur Hugh Mangum opened the latest outpost of his growing smoked meat enterprise Mighty Quinn’s (75 Greenwich Avenue, 646-524-7889) in a wide expanse of space on Greenwich Avenue. The open room has a similar feel to the restaurant’s East Village flagship, with natural wood, red brick, and white tile walls — though this location also enjoys pressed tin ceilings. The food lineup should also look familiar, with Mangum’s bark-heavy pulled pork, brisket, and ribs beckoning diners from the counters stationed in back. Mighty Quinn’s makes some of our favorite barbecue in the city, so we were eager to see how things were faring at the new address.
As the menu is basically the same, consistency plays a larger role in determining the success of sibling establishments, and the Mighty Quinn’s formula is working. The brisket was as moist and richly flavored as any ‘cue I’ve consumed from the Smorgasburg vets, with its aforementioned pronounced crust. The kitchen was also running a special of pork cheeks, which were less smoky than the standard pulled pork, but made up for the muted flavor with gelatinous pig face meat that all but melted off my fork.
Sides are mostly the same, although a salad of edamame with goat cheese and snap peas has been replaced by a Tex-Mex-inspired number that pairs the soybeans with corn, cotija cheese, and jicama. It’s just as light and refreshing as the earlier version, but it needed a dash of salt.
Mangum and co. also rolled out dessert a few weeks ago, launching with mint chocolate chip ice cream sandwiches made with double chocolate chip cookies and ice cream from Princeton, NJ’s cult favorite frozen treats purveyor The Bent Spoon. On our visit, the sweet send-off was warm, almost fluffy blueberry bread pudding. And at $4 for a cup, a damn fine deal.
As barbecue operations go, Mighty Quinn’s manages to synthesize the low-and-slow experience with its fast casual approach, and it’s clearly paying off. Later this month, the ‘cue crew opens inside Crown Heights beer hall Berg’n.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 13, 2014