Dish no. 53: Burritos from Mission Cantina (172 Orchard Street, 212-254-2233)
When the man who gave the world kung pao pastrami was forced to close the establishment that made both him and it famous, he funneled his frustrations into working on its sister restaurant. From a psychedelic corner cantina, Danny Bowien makes magic with masa, enriching it with butter and cream like Latino grits. As a San Francisco transplant, he’s no stranger to burrito greatness, and he’s graciously bestowed the city with some of it’s finest specimens, including a Mission-inspired version stuffed with French fries. At $12 a pop, they’re not cheap, but with bold fillings like shredded lamb and rabbit confit that have as much nuance as plated dishes, we’ll happily pay the toll.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 14, 2014