Dish no. 48: Chef’s steak from Colonia Verde (247 Dekalb Avenue, 347-689-4287)
Harnessing fire remains one of mankind’s greatest accomplishments; just ask any college student holding a bong and a lighter. But at Colonia Verde, the cooks are up to something even danker. At Felipe Donelly and Tamy Rofe’s Fort Greene farmhouse cantina, the wood-fired plancha kisses everything from butterflied langoustines to a chef’s steak, which will either be a skirt cut or a rib eye. Large enough to share, it hits the table with an expertly charred crust, the interior marbled and juicy. Served with a smoky salsa verde and caramelized onion-spiked mashed sweet potatoes, it’s as good a non-dry aged steak as you’re likely to find outside one of our city’s storied meat temples.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
See all of our 100 favorite dishes.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 21, 2014