Dish no. 44: Suadero tacos from Taqueria Izucar (1503 Myrtle Avenue, Brooklyn; 718-456-0569)
Yes, there are plenty of decent tacos in New York City, despite cries from displaced west coasters that good versions don’t exist, but many of those are fancy packets of trendy ingredients, served by chefs bent on elevating Mexican food to haute cuisine. To find the taco in its glorious street snack incarnation — with a price to match — head to the Myrtle-Wyckoff stop out in Bushwick and find Taqueria Izucar. The tiny sliver of a restaurant is barely big enough for a couple of counter seats and a kitchen, where pots of veal bubble seductively, stewing over low heat for hours. Order the suadero tacos, and you’ll get that veal, drooling its savory juice, piled into corn rounds and topped with onions, cilantro, and, if you choose, salsa. If you plan to carry out, be sure to over-order. You’ll want to eat these until you can’t move.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 27, 2014
More:100 Favorite Dishes