Dish no. 42: Corn from Tuome (536 East 5th Street, 646-833-7811)
That Tuome’s menu reads like a simple collection of trendy food belies what the kitchen is actually serving — yes, chef Thomas Chen’s team is dabbling in octopus, deviled eggs, and short ribs alongside just about every other kitchen in this city, but it’s turning out compelling takes on each of these dishes that marry Chen’s penchant for Asian flavors to excellent, nuanced New American cooking. Frankly, just about any dish on the list could have been a favorite dish, but since it seems like we should choose one, we’ll put our stamp on the corn, a hearty bowl of fresh, sweet kernels enlivened with rich curry, a bracing flash of kaffir lime, and the tart edge of creme fraiche. It’s a side, which means you should ask for it regardless of what you go for in the entree section.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 29, 2014
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