Dish no. 41: Bread and butter at Razza (275 Grove Street, 201-356-9348)
Bypass the fast-growing multitude of slice joints now surrounding the Grove Street PATH Station and follow the scent of fresh-baked bread to Razza, where oven-warmed crusty loaves of Bucks County rye arrive stacked and sliced on a slate smeared with salted, sour fermented butter. Chef Dan Richer’s naturally leavened obsession dominates the appetizer menu here, where it’s also available to sponge an olive oil trio or the red gravy remainder of fire-roasted meatballs. And there’s no getting this on Seamless or to carry back across the Hudson: the $4 appetizer’s only served in house, to better whet your appetite for mozzarella-laden pizzas, seasonally garnished with spring onions, summer corn, and roasted pumpkin.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 2, 2014
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