Dish no. 39: Hand rolled ricotta ‘cuscino’ from Meadowsweet (149 Broadway, 718-384-0673)
When we chatted with Polo Dobkin and his wife, Stephanie, about opening Meadowsweet, the chef told us his vision for the menu was “contemporary American food with a Mediterranean current. I let the ingredients speak for themselves, and it’s about execution over elaboration. It’s as seasonal and local as you can possibly make it.” Two months into the spot’s tenure, his deceptively simple fare is celebrating the end of the summer harvest. One stand out dish, though, is a pasta that’s been on the menu from the start — the hand rolled ricotta ‘cuscino,’ so named for its pillow shape. A flat egg-noodle pouch is filled with sweet herbed ricotta and then perched in pool of light, savory parmesan brodo studded with fat English peas; a finishing tuft of fresh peas sprouts gives the dish a verdant lift. Get in there to eat it quickly so you can follow up your meal with corn tres leches cake and a scoop of blueberry sorbet for dessert; it’s a brilliant tribute to the season, and it channels late sunsets and lazy days.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 4, 2014
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