If you’re looking for somewhere to hunker down underground and gorge on suckling pig and cachaca until the next World Cup, you might want to check out Botequim (132 Fourth Avenue; 212-432-1324), the long-anticipated clubhouse from the restaurateurs behind Tocqueville and 15 East that’s located inside the Hyatt Union Square.
If this sounds somewhat familiar, that’s because chef Marco Moreira previewed his Brazilian ambitions earlier this summer with a tournament-spanning pop-up. Slow-cooked pig and hulking cuts of tender short ribs then served as specials on Brazilian game days, but now, hearth-roasted meats are the nightly attraction, their scents wafting from the muraled back dining room’s open kitchen. Subtle sweetness permeates the beef, including a tangy grilled Brazilian sausage and melt-on-your-tongue pastelzinhos, bite-sized meat pies, that are a more precious take on the bites you’d expect to find in any corner botequim across Brazil.
Botequim is the Portuguese word for the nation’s ubiquitous pubs, and the three communal farm tables dominating the front room mean to evoke that camaraderie, serving as a place to pop in after work to snack on cheese bread and over spiced and fruity house-infused cachacas and caiprinhas, while the back room’s better suited for rib steaks paired to the strong South American wine list.
The restaurant opens tonight.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 11, 2014