Dish no. 33: Bucatini from Bar Primi (325 Bowery, 212-220-9100)
Just as the first warm day of the year ignites in us an intense craving for spring dishes like roasted chicken and rosé, the first breath of fall sends us searching for a glass of full red and a platter of hearty pasta. We began to feel that creeping chill in the night air this week, and we quickly found ourselves a table at Bar Primi for a plate of bucatini. The nest of thick noodles comes smacked with deeply savory and slightly pungent lamb Amatriciana, and covered in sharp parmigiano. It’s an intense dish that will smack you awake after a long day, and then lull you to sleep with its heft. The dish probably works best with the sangiovese the restaurant keeps on its by-the-glass list, but we matched it to the Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, a medium-bodied pour with a nice floral nose.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
See all of our 100 Favorite Dishes.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 12, 2014
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