Dish no. 29: Nippon nachos from Do or Dine (1108 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn; 718-684-2290)
Read crowdsourced reviews of Do or Dine and you’ll notice Justin Warner’s menu garners fervent fans and harsh critics at a near equal rate. The Next Food Network Star winner’s dishes have never been for everyone — they’re bizarre combinations of ingredients that irreverently mash together different cultures, and you wouldn’t be alone in wondering whether the chef was intoxicated when he put together his recipes. More than three years after the doors opened, greatest hits of the early days remain on the list, including the famous foie gras doughnut, made in collaboration with nearby bakery Dough, and the Nippon nachos. And why shouldn’t they? They still hold up. For the nachos, crisply fried wonton shells cradle gouda, cheddar, and pico de gallo; they’re topped with masago (fish egg)-laced sour cream. Our only regret is that you can’t order these by the platter.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 18, 2014
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