Dish no. 28: Fluke at Grindhaus (275 Van Brunt Street, Brooklyn; 718-909-2881)
One way to embrace the last few days of summer is to grab one of the seats on Grindhaus’s back patio and pop the cork on a bottle of wine. Once your glass is full, you can build a feast from dishes that showcase the tail end of the harvest — there are still tomatoes worth eating, for example, and the kitchen here has come into some nice huckleberries, too. Fish crudo can be a year-round thing, thankfully, but it tastes best when the weather’s too hot for cooking. Grindhaus is doing a nice fluke right now; the fish is stung by acid and brightened with verdant celery, sorrel, and lovage. You’re not going to want to eat fresh greens like this once the weather turns, but right now, on the cusp of a fleeting season, you should seize the moment, and get in and eat this dish before it’s gone.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 19, 2014
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