Long overdue for its own Lincoln Center revival, the former Arpeggio wine bar at Avery Fisher Hall is now Lincoln Center Kitchen (Broadway at 65th Street; 212-874-7000), a window-walled theater lobby bistro with a menu of crowd-pleasing new American standards by neighborhood fixture Ed Brown. If the chef’s name looks familiar, it’s because you can spot it on the marquee across the street, at Ed’s Chowder House, restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow’s upscale clam shack at the Empire Hotel.
Running the kitchen is an executive chef with local chops, Daniel Anconetani, who previously worked nearby at Warner Leroy-era Tavern on the Green. His cooking at LCK draws out bold flavors with an autumn bend from a subtle menu, making a roasted shallot-crusted popover, split, steaming, and spilling out a bounty of wild mushrooms, and a sweet, velvet corn chowder poured over an island of crab meat, hard to miss.
And for those who still fidget through even unfinished symphonies, a limited late-night menu’s available from 9 to 11 p.m., accommodating hungry ticketholders eager to hand off their stubs to second act-ers, en route to a short rib burger and Brooklyn brew at the bar.
Have a look around Lincoln Center Kitchen: