Even as the pizza scene surrounding Grove Street reaches critical mass, variety in Paulus Hook has only dwindled. La Rustique traded Morris Street for Jersey Avenue, John’s is no longer affiliated with the Bleecker Street original, and Pizzeria Uno shuttered years ago. Now Dyker Heights’ Krispy Pizza (33 Hudson Street, Jersey City; 201-685-7313) has quietly reopened downtown as a brick-and-mortar takeout joint, years after selling its Harborside lunch truck.
From his mobile kitchen, owner Freddy Pallazzola could only turn out the 47-year-old Brooklyn pizzeria’s signature grandma-style wedges, and the truck was hampered by haphazardly enforced parking regulations. But Krispy’s fifth location, operating in the former City Vino space at the base of Liberty Towers, operates all day, serving round and square pies in addition to the original location’s full menu of Italian comfort food, including arancini, eggplant rollatini, and baked ziti.
The dining area is spare and bright, with just a soda case, mounted television, and a few high-top tables. Better to take your lunchtime vodka or balsamic chicken salad slices along the waterfront across the street. Delivery’s an option too, but a fresh-from-the-oven Palermo pie, a weighty, crisp Sicilian square with melted mozzarella smothered in a sweet caramelized onion and chunky tomato sauce, is a sight to behold.
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