Dish no. 19: Jerk pork from Glady’s (788 Franklin Avenue, Brooklyn; 718-622-0249)
At Michael Jacober’s festive Crown Heights Caribbean restaurant, cooks load a wood-fired oven with fresh green pimento lumber to slow-cook jerk chicken, lobster, and pork. The choice of kindling pays off in spades: Roasting over such sainted embers imbues the meats with an intensely herbal smokiness that takes the kitchen’s bold proprietary seasoning to inspiring places. Chicken is superlative, and that lobster can be fun to split, but the pork is unmatched, its succulence and richness in harmony with the punch of allspice and chiles. Jacober and his Caribbean crusaders keep prices neighborhood-friendly, selling half-pound portions of porcine nirvana for $8.50.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.