Dish no. 15: Sandwich Cubano from Cafeteria La Mejor (191 Suydam, Brooklyn)
If you want to understand what people mean when they say, “It’s the bread that makes the Cubano,” head straight for this vibrantly hued Bushwick restaurant, where Cuban white bread, griddled until eggshell-crisp, really does make the sandwich. Oh, sure, it’s innards are great, too — there’s a neatly packed stack of roasted pork, ham, gooey melted swiss, and pickles between those two slices of bread, and a shmear of grainy mustard, too. But that toasty bread gives each bite magnificent delicate crunch, and it makes this sandwich one you won’t soon forget. Do not miss, either, the cafe con leche, made the Cuban way, with sugar, butter, and a pinch of salt.
In advance of our 2014 Best of NYC issue, we’re traipsing through the boroughs and divulging our favorite dishes of the year. They’re presented here as a countdown, but we’re listing them in no particular order. Consider this a guide to what’s good to eat in this town right this very second.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 8, 2014
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