In the months since Emmett’s (50 Macdougal Street, 917-639-3571) opened its doors and became the only place in Manhattan where you could find Chicago-style deep dish pizza, it’s become more than a gathering place for homesick midwesterners looking for a taste of the Windy City. Emmett’s is staffed by owner Emmett Burke’s brother, Dillon, who is one of the friendliest bartenders in the five boroughs; he lures in a convivial crowd of neighbors, so that the tiny address is packed even late on a Tuesday night. Also, the pizza — deep-dish, crisp-crusted, and slathered in rich, tangy tomato sauce — is good, and we’re not the only patrons without connection to Chicago who occasionally duck in for a pie.
If you do scoff at deep-dish — or if you’re a Chicagoan who also misses other midwestern treats — you have a couple of new reasons to stop by: Emmett’s just rolled out menu changes.
As of this week, you can get your Chicago-style thin crust, which is cracker-crisp and cut into squares, swiped with that same tomato sauce, and coated with a thin layer of mozzarella plus the toppings your heart desires (ours desire sausage, green peppers, and onions, for what that’s worth). Dillon says the place is also now turning out a Chicago dog — set in a poppyseed bun and accoutred with the usual ingredients, including celery salt — though it’s not yet printed on the menu.
Go late or be prepared to fight a crowd — and don’t overlook the wine list, which is a surprisingly tight collection of things that pair nicely with pizza.