The bánh mì is the taco of Vietnamese cuisine: Our version bears little similarity to the original; we stack it with ingredients that no one in Vietnam has ever heard of, and there’s pretty much no way you can screw it up. But the folks at the Pickle Shack in Gowanus have more or less mastered this now-ubiquitous stuffed baguette. The key: In place of the usual grilled meat and pâté is a firm, but toothsome, slice of maple- and anise-marinated tofu that is smoked in-house. This iteration also features the requisite crisp vegetables, but they are, not surprisingly, expertly pickled. This is one of the borough’s best overall sandwiches — Vietnamese-inspired or otherwise. It is strongly advised that you pair the sandwich with an order of fried pickles. Because, as it turns out, fried pickles at a place called Pickle Shack are awesome.