Due partially to sheer size, New York is now one of the very best barbecue cities in the country, so there are enough great selections to start subdividing this category. But Hometown BBQ rises above them all. This cavernous Red Hook space can transport you all the way to Texas, though it’s filled with hipsters rather than rednecks. The beef ribs are the highlight, but most smoked options are moist, succulent, and capped with the salty-sweet hard-earned bark that’s the hallmark of 12 hours plus of smoking. There’s also less common fare on the menu here: See the lamb belly, which you can dig into only if you get here early enough in the day — Hometown tends to run out.