Funked-out burgers are all the rage, with plenty of outfits around town peddling dry-aged beef, game, and farm meats in hopes of patty-sandwich supremacy. At Louro, chef David Santos serves a goat burger so nuanced, it’s more Barnard than barnyard. The freshly ground puck (an 80/20 ratio of goat meat and beef fat) develops a hard-seared crust, and comes topped with crisp slabs of pork belly, a mixture of aged and fresh goat cheeses, and pickled red onions. There’s remarkable harmony between the gamy, creamy, and piquant elements, pulled together by a brioche roll toasted and coated in tangy tomato marmalade. Sat next to buttery roasted fingerling potatoes, this cosmopolitan approach to the world’s most popular meat succeeds on all levels.