Best Of

Best Burrito

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Deftly executed, the burritos at Mission Cantina are game-changers. Do not balk at the $11.50 price point: These aren’t the largest packages in town, but it shouldn’t be about how many ingredients a cook can cram into a flour tortilla, anyway. The kitchen here is more focused on pulling as much flavor as possible from every ingredient: Rice is omitted so the fillings resemble an almost slurpable stew, with shreds of gamy lamb and brothy beans melding their braising liquors with slices of softening avocado, crema, salsa, and cheese. The finished cylinder is rolled around on the flat-top so the outsides start to color and crisp, which may be the only worthwhile technique borrowed from Taco Bell, ever.

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